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MOTORCYCLE TOUR LOG - 1996

A-48, Arches National Park, the perfect campsite.

The Fine Art of Motorcycle Touring



   MOTORCYCLE TOUR LOG - 1996


Motorcycle Stories and Other Assorted Tales

by C. C. Crow


1996 Broken Cut Foot Motorcycle Tour

8-21 WED
The trip finally begins! I thought about going out a week early, Phil and family were in Colorado, Durango Monday riding the train and I thought it would be fun "holding it up", however Becca and family were in town and I just didn't have the energy. After five weeks in Alaska and another week up in Canada camping with my nephew Eric, just relaxing at home had a certain appeal. I did stuff with Becca and got a little work done and rested up. Okay, so Tuesday we took them to the airport, dropped into REI old downtown store for the last time (they are building a new flagship store), and bought some hiking shoes and raincoat. Back home for some packing I had a zigzag headache. The cat slept with me downstairs. I left a mess, but by 10:10 a.m. I was off. Kitty brought me a tiny snake before I left. If I left earlier I was going to take Rt. 2 over Steven's Pass but I figured I needed to make some time so I took I-90 over Snoqualmie, old road up last part, it needs paving. Ate at Mac's in Moses Lake, just beat a bus in, went through Cheny and Marshall to see RRs, through rush hour traffic in Spokane, need to tour someday, off and on buttitus, acute chronic numb ass, well, not that bad. Stop and photo Kellogg and others, then Wallace, camp at CABIN CREEK CG, fire and salmon for dinner, no bugs! Volt meter was oscillating today. Hope its not the generator-

8-22 THUR
It's cool in the morning, I can feel where my arms and legs stick out, should have zipped up. I keep saying that every time I wake up. Stop at Smith and Jones BMW in Missoula to check meter, system is okay, maybe just meter, or loose wire. Buy new front tire, $120 + 15 mount and balance. Next destination, BUTTE, my reason for going this way. Stop along the way and wash my hair in the Clark Fork River. Very warm summer day. Legally drive 95 mph. Just for a little while, could go 100. Day time speed is "reasonable". The downside is it rattles your body and eats up the gas, but it's sure quick. I'm down to 180 miles per 5 gal. anyway. So I cruise at 65-70 and take stops here and there. In Garrison there is a UP train, turns out to be Central Montana RR, never heard of them, ex-UP jeeps plus some Ramsey lease units. I see the same train later in Butte. I learn the Butte means brick, I'm sure of it. I should have come here years ago. I'm through a whole roll of film before I know it. At least a couple of got to dos. Check out the old GN roundhouse, now cabinet shop, inside tour. Nice guy. I criss-cross town, amazed. Head for Pipestone Pass, cowboy camp at TOLL MTN.

8-23 FRI
It's time to ride! But first I have to break camp. I discover an ash has burnt a nice hole in my mattress- I recall I have a repair kit- somewhere... After a walk around the campground I take off, RR tracks over Pipestone are gone. I think about taking a picture but don't. It's beautiful country, mountains and vast valleys, sun bleached grass and pines. Twin Bridges has several nice brick buildings. I get a quart of oil, bike is down a half, running nicely. Dell is "two photo town". Into Dillion, there are lots of photos to take, eat at Taco John's, now it's Interstate time, scenes are vast but mostly boring, 75 mph in Idaho, Utah same. There are some photos in Malad City, I eat a sandwich in the shade of the grain silos, it's hot. Into Salt Lake City on the tail of rush hour. I think about touring downtown but decide not, it's getting late and I don't want to run at night. I'm out of gas at Lehi and discover the Lehi Rolling Mill, very very cool. Dark photos though. Into Provo I go out to UTAH LAKE CG, bug city, swarm like mini-tornadoes! I call Rooti, he's had a rough week, isn't ready, won't make it to Arches so we settle on Colorado National Monument.

8-24 SAT
Rendezvous Day. I had a nice sleep on the soft grass, oil up the bike and fix the headlight- which I had adjusted too much and came unscrewed. Watch SP on Solder Summit, seems weird, used to be Rio Grande, check out Helper, stop for burger, fries and a shake, push on into Green River. Take frontage road to avoid I-70 but it is pretty rough. One more big push and I'm into Grand Junction and on up to COLORADO NATIONAL MONUMENT, site 37, talk to Bill and watch the girls at his camp, they are here for a bikeathon. I set up my tent and then go into town for a repair kit for my mattress. I take the loop through the park which is being worked on, poor bikers. I find the repair kit at Gene Taylors, almost get rear ended, stop at mall and look for pants, finally settle on Dockers, back to camp an hour and a half late, Buck is there waiting, Rooti arrives at dusk, we party till midnight.

8-25 SUN
After breakfast we slowly get going, gas up and hit the City Market, they are on strike, debate and get sandwich supplies for river, stop by Dewey Bridge, cruise river road, nice ride but hot and sleepy, stop at spring for pipe water, then into Moab, look for mattress, $80! Balk, will try to repair mine again (didn't work first time). Spend $125 at market- we have a car! Dodge thunderstorms, almost dodge them, south, then west to Natural Bridges, oops, campground is full, head for Lake, looking for sites, Rooti leads, past a couple of maybes, we head right for center of storm, pass through ridge, no sites, so we decide to go to Lake Powell, HALLS CG, site 15, cook steaks.

8-26 MON
Time to break camp and get the boat. We are renting an 18 foot power boat this year, 18-U, with a Merc 150, load up after being initialized and iced up. Wow, we have a lot of stuff- the result of having a car. We head south and stop at the swimming cliffs. The water is up 15-20 feet. Full pool is 3700 ft. As we pull in I jump out to help pull the boat into a small cove, its slippery on the sandstone from the algae, my foot slips and I go down. At first I think I've just stubbed my little toe but then I see blood, lots of it, the bottom of my foot is split open. Stitches are $67.50 a piece at the Lake Powell clinic and I need six of them. We pull out and go over to Bullfrog, Rooti stays with the boat, Buck and I take the shuttle bus to the clinic. Takes about an hour. I keep thinking about all the fun I'll be missing. Steve, the PA, tells me I'm lucky, they send a lot of people home. No pressure on foot, no swimming. This sucks! But there's nothing I can do. But party! Back to the boat, we head south, there are lots of boats and campsites are few. We settle on a spot across from Iceberg with a view of the Rincon, cook ribs for dinner.

8-27 TUE
My foot doesn't hurt as bad as I thought it would. Or maybe the ibuprofen works that good. We break camp and head back to the marina, Rooti checks for mail, we ice and gas up, this boat is a pig. We run north looking for a home but its not till late that we find a perch. We check a lot of places out, too much sun, no beach, no nasty hot babes. We return to the marina once more for ice cream. It's hot. Our new home is at buoy 103 or so, north notch. It has a small beach, both morning and evening shade, some small bushes and a cave to hide the coolers in. Pretty good place we decide. We have "cut foot" chicken fajitas. I cowboy camp.

8-28 WED
We have a little relief before the sun hits. It's explore north day, after stopping at the marina to complain about the boat not working they tell us what to do. We head north and find a place to swim. All I can do is hang my head and splash water in my face and towel myself with a wash cloth. This isn't any fair! I want to dive in. But I can't. The water feels so good. We motor south, take Buck to Escalente to see Clear Creek. Its a long run back, 30 miles. We are beat. It's supposed to be spaghetti night but we forget and have ham steaks and beans, quick and easy. We watch for the moon to come up.

8-29 THUR
I wake early and watch the sun rise. There are a couple of clouds. I try to fish. The boys slowly rise. After tea and coffee its off to the marina for gas and ice. We run north a little and check out some of the side canyons, hang out in the shade around Defiance House rebuilt Ruins. Buck goes up to see two rangerettes. They blow their whistles at the speeders. We move down to Moki Canyon to hang out and swim. The fishermen come by, then other boats chase us out. We find another swimming spot, the fishermen come by again, and other boats. It's 4:30, we're surprised, and head back to camp, now in the shade. The Dickley's have moved in. They go out for a joy ride and leave poor Rex the dog behind, frying in the sun. Assholes. We finally have the spaghetti for dinner, then sit down our last night and really watch the moon rise. Its orange, we guess because of smoke in the air.

8-30 FRI
The alarm sounds at 5:30 a.m. The moon is up but not the sun yet. There's just enough light to pack by. We bark and yip at the neighbors, as Rex had when they were gone. No doubt they will blame poor Rex. We move our stuff into the boat and take off. It's a fun smooth ride into the marina, where we unload and reload our bikes and Buck, his car. Gas up the pig boat and return it. Better here than on the rocks. We move over to the ferry for a sort and shower. It's time to look at my foot. Not as bad as I thought, six nice blue stitches. I shower and redress it. We load up and just miss the ferry. Buck rides off into the... he's not certain. We go to the store and ice up. I try to call home, leave a message about $67.50 stitches. The ferry takes us across for $3.00. It's hot once again. We take the highway up to Hanksville and stop for gas and groceries. What to have? Not much of a choice. We talk to bikers, then push on to Capitol Reef, check the campground but decide to move on up to BOULDER MOUNTAIN and camp at Pleasant Creek CG, site 6. $8.00 for pit toilets! BQ chicken, Scotty the Skunk gets the bones.

8-30 SAT
Off with the faring! We take a trip to the top of the Burr Trail. What a great ride. The middle of the canyon is beautiful. Hard to believe it is just BLM land (not any more, it's now a part of the Grand Staircase NP) 11 miles from the switch-backs we take a side road on dirt, what the Burr Road used to be. We hide out under a big rock and eat sandwiches. Back out and to Escalente for ice cream. We check out grocery and decide its taco night, ride back to camp, watch for deer!, blazing fire, dogs?

9-1 SUN
We need a day off. Decide to stick around here instead of riding across Nevada. We go to Torrey and do laundry, take walk around photo tour, watering babe schoolhouse. This is taco night. Waste the whole day doing nothing.

9-2 MON
Time to do something. Why not the Burr Trail? This time clock- wise, through Capitol Reef visitors center first. We bug the help. The road is in good condition. I'd hate to see it when it is bad!! Well, it wasn't in too bad of condition but it wasn't great either. Bumpy. Still, it was a fun run, hot and dusty though. We'd stop at some shade, sip a beer, and move on. Finally, at the top of the switch-backs, we find the stray cat perch and have lunch. Chips and crap with a view. What a view, the Henry Mtns, rock benches, cliffs and the folding reef before us. We should camp here! We enjoy the ride back up the staircase to Boulder Mtn. Let over tacos with a huge log fire.

9-3 TUE
Finally it's time to say good-bye to Boulder Mtn camp. We debate moving to Great Basin but decide on BRYCE CANYON. But first the faring have to go back on. Rooti's bike is falling apart. He tapes it back together. Finally we are off. Past a Japanese who crashed his rental car, must have been a deer. More development everywhere, new hotel, ranches, homes. Oh well, up to Bryce CG, then North CG, in town camping, we aren't happy and go to Sunset, it's worse there. A loop is RVs only, "no tents", "What's up with this?" A loop is empty, B and C, the tent loops are nearly full. We spot 250, 251, "campsite occupied" sign in the one we want, but nothing else. We wonder if the Dickley's are here> We check the stub drop, nothing. The camp host drives by and tells us, "It's occupied, Sir." We argue the point. He changes his tune. We leave. We know when we aren't wanted. We go out to RED CANYON, site 13, this is more like it. $9.00, and by the highway, but the johns are new, and it's sure pretty. We set up camp and BQ chops, no fire.

9-4 WED
Okay, we are camped at Bryce, so we decide to ride to ZION and hike. Makes perfect sense to us. It takes two hours to get there, a beautiful ride, nice and sunny. Into Zion through the tunnel, we go to the lodge for a turkey sub and lemonade, then up Angle's Landing, twelve switch-backs, it's hot but we make it. Hippie kids behind us. We hang out and enjoy the view. All good things must come to an end so down we go, retreat to the Bit and Spur, then to RV park for $3.00 shower, it's great. We go up the hill to Mt. Carmel Jct. at sunset, then it's a very slow ride home at 45 mph through herds of deer, standing at the edge of the highway. Finally we make it, quick party, search for wood, sleep, neighbors.

9-5 THUR
Plan for the day, get wood, check out the reservoir. The first part goes fine, we get a load. We check out the side road to Losee and Castor Canyons, very nice, in the red rocks, all alone. Lots of fire wood. We have PB&Js, then head for the rez via the store. No meats, so we go to Panguitch, cool town, 20 photos, I'm not sure why, but we never made it to the rez, we have a big cook out, steaks and rice, large salad. Party. It rains.

9-6 FRI
Last day. We decide to go hike Bryce rather than check out the rez. We go to visitor's center to look at the options. We go to Bryce Point and hike to The Hat Shop, pretty day, long views, so-so sights, decide to retreat and maybe check out the rez. But Rooti's bike fails on the way, gear box jams in 4th gear, won't shift. Now what? Call U-haul and find a van in Kanab, 70 miles south, take Rooti down, weird girl, thunderstorms chase us out of town, chili at store, with corn and ribs, great dinner for end of trip. Shove that bike in there.

9-7 SAT
Time to say good-bye to Rooti. He's up early, packing the van, just throw that junk in there. He's off at 9:30. It takes me another half hour. The camp host comes by, then I'm off solo. I thought about following Rooti home-- I go back into Pangutch and then up towards CEDAR BREAKS, a windy old road with nice scenery. Talk to Pops about motorcycling at CB, tells me about Mt. Shasta, I swear I've heard it before?? I try to call home. Down into Cedar City, another nice run, shop, then head across desert to Minersville and Milford, RR, Drunks sleeping it off. Trailer town. Push NW across big desert, stop at coke ovens and Frisco ghost town. Huge desert next! Into Baker, buy beer, see Ausi, up into GREAT BASIN, Baker Creek CG, site 12. The family is next door. Nice stars. Cook chicken and corn, no potable water, $5.00.

9-8 SUN
I decide to push on, since I've already done the cave, hiked the bristle cones and Wheeler Peak- save the repeats for another time. Does this make sense? Well, I push on. Check out Ely and the Nevada Northern RR yard. It's already 1:30! Maybe I'm a time zone off? On to Eureka, stop at the store, then north up route which is disappointing, just endless desert scrub and blue skies. My hope to watch trains and scenery are unfulfilled in Carlin- what an ugly place. I look for film, pass on over priced rolls of expired 24s. Maybe on to Battle Mountain? Into the sun, over rotten road. I'll never come this way again. The prospects of camps are poor. Maybe a rest stop? Into WINNEMUCCA I cruise the town, gas up, my bike has been running poorly, no power. Headwind and heat? I change plugs, no difference. Maybe its the air filter? It's late and I'm tired. I pick the Scott Shady Court Hotel, $32.00, a smoker's heaven, call home and watch TV.

9-9 MON
Rooti's back at work, ha-ha, I think. I shower and pack up. Slept in too late. I skip breakfast, think about a diner, but move on. After getting some film from the film babe even more desolation awaits me riding north. Lots of nothing. I eat lunch at Denio, then more miles of nothing. I stop at hanging glider point, at Lake View I decide to head NW instead of going west to Crater Lake, I drag this nothing out longer. Gas at Presley, Cycle Oregon in Silver Lake, tons of them. I push on to La Pine, groceries, Its late so I camp at PRINGLE FALLS CG, site 2, dry and dusty, lots of trash, no water, no campfires. BQ isn't a campfire is it? I cook a steak with corn. Ponderosa forest, replanted, the ATV's have run over everything, nice evening though, after dark a car camper comes in, sets up and entertains me.

9-10 TUE
The car campers are still in their tent when I leave late at 10:30, no wonder they get to camp late, they are worse than I am! Another nice day, its flat and in the trees so no vistas, I don't have a good map nor have I seen one to make my way around. The highway is good, river seems interesting, fly fishermen in personal floats at lake, Stop at Beach picnic ground, nice view of the Sisters, Steve in 54 Chevy with chick, into Bend and mess of traffic, Mac's. Rt 22 towards Portland, stop by river and snack, check out campgrounds, at Detroit Lake the road I wanted is closed so I decide to stay the night, grocery maids, spaghetti, back to RIVERSIDE CG, great site by very big fir trees, scare neighbor off.

9-11 WED
Good nights sleep, say hi to neighbors, pack up. Down by log mill, into town traffic, tons of it, take side road to I-5 to miss construction, stop at rest stop to wash up, check out Aurora and take 99-E into Oregon City and across to Gladstone, visit my Aunt Irene and Uncle Fred, poor Irene, I woke her from her nap. We go to Italian restaurant for dinner, cute waitress, poor service, great food (seafood fetticini).

9-12 THUR
After BIG breakfast I say good-bye, go to Jim's Whistle Stop, back on the Interstate north, cloudy and dank but at least its not raining. Lunch at Wendy's in Centraila, back onto highway is cold, takes a while to settle back in, I'd like to go into mountains and fish but forecast is rain so I head home. I roll on through Seattle and up I-5, Ma, Pa and the cat are all waiting for me as I come up the drive.


  Next Log - 1996 A  




   MOTORCYCLE TOUR LOG - INDEX

  1980   Datsun Roadster Trip - Sorry, no log

  1981   Solo On My New Bike - Sorry, no log

  1982   We Need More Time! - Sorry, not loaded yet

  1983   Stray Cat Tour - Quit Your Job and Go All Summer

  1984   Lost Tour - Colorado, Havasu, Lake Powell

  1985   Girl-i-tus Tour -

  1986   Alb Q Q Loop -

  1987   Freeze Fry Trip -

  1988   The Grand Tour -

  1989   ALASKA - The Ultimate Tour -

  1990   A Month, A Week and A Few Days -

  1991   The Forgotten Trip - No Motorcycles!

  1992   NO TOUR - Sorry, not loaded

  1993   NO TOUR - Sorry, not loaded

  1994   Who's In Charge? Tour -

  1995   Not Sure Where Tour - No real plan

  1996   Back To Alaska - Sorry, not loaded

  1996   Jasper Car Camping - Sorry, not loaded

  1996   Broken Cut Foot Tour -

  1997   What Trip? - Sorry, not loaded

  1998   TOUR - Sorry, not loaded

  1999   TOUR - Sorry, not loaded

  2000   Nailed In Montuna - Sorry, not loaded

  2001   A Tiny Solo Trip - Sorry, not loaded





    A MONTH, A WEEK
    and A FEW DAYS

    Motorcycle Stories


    ODD TALES
    and STRANGE STORIES

    Truth blended with Fiction


    T O U R   L O G S    



    P H O T O   G A L L E R Y    



    I N   T H E   G A R A G E    

    Miscellany







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  C. C. CROW     P. O. BOX 1427      MUKILTEO, WA   98275   USA