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A-48, Arches National Park, the perfect campsite.

The Fine Art of Motorcycle Touring


Motorcycle Stories and Other Assorted Tales

by C. C. Crow

1989 The Great Alaska Motorcycle Tour

6-3 SAT
Ride into Seattle, stop at boat on Lake Union, go to Fisherman's Terminal and leave truck. Return to boat, give Les ride back. He brings boat over to FT and we load up nets and bike. Have to move Jenny O to get to lift. I pull off wheel and final drive, 50 cent hoist. It's a tight fit. Lunch at Little Chinook's, finish packing. I drive boat back. Get caught in wind, recover generator, drop off final drive at Bill's, pick up tank bag.

6-14 WED
Stayed up last night till 2 a.m., packing, cleaning and generally going nuts. Wake up at 6 a.m., alarm was set for 7. Decisions are impossible. Packing for a simple cycle trip is a lot easier. I have chores to run, we go out to Los Plumas and have Haverios Metalinos then go to boat. Bad headache- Captain Les is on his way. Have to load faring, bags and stuff before they arrive. Off we go! I'm inside when they cast off and almost miss saying good- bye. We go up around Whidbey Island, past submarine. After two hours Les hands her over to me. Ten minutes later the weather starts to get rough. Past Port Townshend to the San Juan Islands. Does good cutting into sea but still very poor with following sea. It's nice inside islands, we stop at Friday Harbor but guest dock is closed so we go on. Camp at STUARD ISLAND, tired out.

6-15 THUR
Beautiful morning, cast off at 7 a.m., run on smooth water through Swanson Channel, first whale alert, Killers. Through Captain's Passage, eat bacon and eggs & HB, then through Dodd Narrows, shower before customs at Nanaimo, take picture of customerette as she confiscates our apples. Gas up at Esso, loose a bumper. Then have perfect run across Georgia Strait- like glass, sunny. Past Campbell River, fisherman, the weather starts getting rough. Seymour Narrows we ride with the tide into the wind, it twists and turns. We are into Johnstone Strait we buck three plus foot waves, smoothly around Race Passage, we see Alaska Ferry and three cruise ships. It's 8 p.m., we're looking at Port Neville but go on to Havannah Channel, sneaking our way into the calmer back waters. A guide book put us into Burial Cove for the night. We are all tired, have a salad for dinner and a drink. Call home is blurred. Then hit the sack. I dream about anchor line winding out and the boat drifting, tangling with everything- bad guys and dynamite.

6-17 FRI
Sleep in till 7, then go up Chatham Channel and around to Cutter Cove, crab but no luck. Move on towards Port Hardy via Knight Inlet, weather outlook is bad, but we enjoy good weather all day, partly cloudy with a shower or two near Alert Bay. We stop in Port Hardy for fuel, no time for grocery or phone- we push on. Pass through God's Pocket and into Queen Charlotte Strait, light ocean swells, sunny, we set course for Pine Island, past Storm Island, then Egg Island, with Cape Calvert as our objective. The crossing takes two hours plus and we are thankful for the good weather. We enter Fitzhugh Sound past Safety Cove and finally into Kwakshus Channel where we anchor in PURTH BAY for the night. pretty spot. Lori can't find a fettachini recipe so I volunteer to cook spaghetti. Rob stays while Lori and Les row into shore to check the trail that goes across to the ocean side beach. I'm cooking away, when we see Les come back at the prescribed time but he is alone and in a hurry. I yell that there is no rush, the foods not quite ready. He yells back, forget the food, there's something he wants us to do- we think the worst, what's happened to Lori? I shut down the stove, drop everything. But he tells us to bring the camera. We row to shore as instructed and head down the trail, we greet the "Chief", a saber-toothed face hand-carved in a cedar tree, we wonder through the deep woods on wood planks, through fallen trees cut for our passage. Near the end we smell the salt air and hear the ocean surf. The view is spectacular, a crescent sand beach, light waves form lines, rocky points to each side with the sun setting through a magnificent pastel colored sky. Click, click, click, I should have brought more film! What a great place. We reluctantly hike back. When we reach the boat I'm told I've made a big mistake. Thinking I burnt dinner or something I'm informed that I have been elect head chef.

6-17 SAT
We wake to gloomy weather, rain. Weigh anchor, and head north saying good-bye to the saber-toothed chief and the little cove. We make our way to New Bella Bella at noon, when everything closes down for lunch. Wanting fuel, we eat lunch and wait. A couple of Indians try to bum money for beers. Ron and Lori go up to the store for milk, fresh food and chewing tobacco. Little kid asks us if we are going to move for the Queen. The Queen, we wonder? The Queen of the North, the BC ferry, due at noon. Oh, yea, guess we will. We were wondering about all the car traffic on the pier. We move around to the other dock. Rob and Lori reappear empty handed, reporting that it was "gross", there were bugs on the lettuce, used barbecues for sale- and Indian trading post, fresh produce arriving once a week on Saturday. We leave Rob back on dock when the wind blasts us away, it takes several tries to puck him back up. Around a point on Seaforth Channel the wind and seas really pick up, hitting us on the side. We seek shelter and wait it out, then brave our way up Mathison Channel, cross Jackson Passage and then into Graham Reach. We push past Butedale and at night fall arrive in Bishop's Bay for anchorage.

6-18 SUN
Les and I row ashore to explore the hot springs. We climb up the old float and walk the planks along the shore and trees to a little hut. We jump into the warm water with an ah. The ceiling rafters are covered with vessel names and dates. We add f/v My Colleen, 6-18-89 above the door. I cook sausages and eggs as we depart. There is a debate over the amount of fuel but we are using less being lighter. We motor on up Grenville Channel with a lunch stop at Lowe Inlet, anchored at the base of a small waterfall. Les and Lori go up to explore, and report that there is a small lake above. As we move on to Prince Rupert I photograph the water from all angles. When we arrive at 6:30 p.m. Sunday evening all the gas docks are closed so we tie up and walk into town. We go to Mama Song's and Rob finally gets his chew- $4!! We walk to McD's and chow down. The walk and air was good. All the cars whizzing around are scary though, we're not used to such speed. Big city. We leave a muffin on the dock for the sea otters.

6-19 MON
We wake at 7 and move over to the fuel dock, hang out until 8 and get 100 gallons, then off we go. Weather has improved, W cross Dixon Entrance and into the State of Alaska uneventfully. We run into the southeastern fleet fishing and spot some sister Lindell boats. the Betty Jean, maybe the Ocean Pearl and for sure the Kokomo, a larger red boat built just before ours. We go over to say hello, it's slow fishing. As we leave Les spots another boat we saw in Friday Harbor and we swing over to say hi there too, they toss us three nice fresh salmon. Tree Point was good to us, happily we go on to Ketchican and hunt for customs, dock there and pay $9 for a stamp. They don't even bother to inspect us. Lori and Rob go do laundry and we go back and put 266 gallons of fuel in. That with the 100 gal. Wow. Rob and I go buy groceries, a drink and a wink. I buy a polarizing filter. Then we shove off. Up Tongass narrows, into Clarence Strait, we decide to head for Santa Anna Bay in Earnst Sound. The water becomes glassy and dolphins play in our wake. We start the stove and cook salmon for dinner. Also catch some crab at our good anchorage.

6-20 TUE
Lori has a claustrophobic fit, wakes up backwards. We get underway, head up Seward Passage and around to Zimovia Strait, have to zigzag up to Wrangell Island, turn west up the narrows to St. Petersberg. We run into Betty Jane at the fuel dock and say hello, then into town. I try to call Alaska ferry wanting to prolong my passage home but it is busy. We do a little shopping and then we are off again. In Fredrick Sound we see whales, they surface with puffs out their blowholes, roll on their backs and sink with a flip of the tail. We stop right beside one playing in the kelp, twenty feet away. Then another large one surfaces and they wallow off. Spectacular. We make our way into Warm Springs Bay and Baranof where we dock- neat general store with hot springs tubs. We hike up the river by the falls.

6-21 WED
Summer Solstice. I wake for a moment around three thirty, it's light out and high tide. Now as I write this at 11 p.m. it is still light out. Les woke early and we were underway by 7. It's slow going. I sleep in a little but Lori and Rob are bunk rats. I cook breakfast and wash dishes, then sit by the wheel. As we approach Glacier Bay we see more whales. We go into Bartlett Cove and check in a day early with Elicia, then head into the park seeing more whales. We go up Muir Inlet to the end. The scenery is more than spectacular, Muir Glacier has receded greatly since 1960 and the inlet's walls are noticeably scoured clean. At the end of the canyon the glacier hides, small icebergs clutter the bay. We stop a half mile off and eat sloppy Joes. We run back and anchor for the night at N. Sandy Bay, bear country. Les believes he has miss estimated the fuel and thinks we don't have enough to run up the other arm as we intended. It will cost fifty miles to return to fuel up. Yesterday I consulted him with my feelings that he has been pushing the entire trip- contrary to what we had been saying all winter while we were building the boat, that we would have three full weeks, to relax and take our time, see Sitka, Glacier Bay... Now we are blasting by everything and he's pushing to make it there in ten days. But I understand he is the captain and in order to do all this we have to catch fish. But we have passed by this and that on the pretense of having time to spend here in Glacier Bay. But we lost two days and a weekend to snow days (he's a teacher). Not to rag on him, I went ahead and told him what I was thinking. Hopefully that was the right thing to do. But this was the chance of a lifetime. I couldn't short change it. At least I wished I had know beforehand and I would have planned my return trip to include these stopovers we had skipped. I will see if I can still do it, if I ever get through to the ferries. Overall, Les has done a good job, this is an outstanding trip. I'm already on roll six- buy stock in Kodak! Bad news from home, Bill still hasn't sent the rear end yet. That will suck bad when we pull it out of the hole. Need to ask about RR tickets.

6-22 THUR
No bears. We go back to Bartlet Cove early and fuel up. I make calls to Alaska Marine Highway and add stops at Juneau and Sitka, briefly at Wrangell. Call Bill- oh well. Les realizes we need to relax and go on vacation. Test fishery today and plans on getting to Snug Harbor on Wednesday next week. So we have lunch at Glacier Bay Lodge, then leisurely head up the bay. See whales, orca, slow up and anchor in Reid Inlet, one mile off glacier for night. Before, we anchor next to Alaska Solstice, big scope AHS, walk up to foot of glacier to say hi. Meet Ausis, chin chon dinner, Glacier Ice cube cocktails. Probably one of the greatest evenings a person could ever enjoy- parked in something you've spent all winter building next to something incredibly outstanding GLACIER BAY ALASKA.

6-23 FRI
We move up the bay and check out John Hopkins Inlet. Lamplugh Glacier is as far as we can go at the mount of the bay, there is just too much float ice, we dance with the cruise ship Universe, then follow her up the bay to Grand Pacific and Margerie Glaciers. Margerie is very active, we eat a good breakfast and watch her dump new icebergs into the bay. Alaska Solstice calls over the radio to another boat, "Yeah, we're serving breakfast, could you slow down a bit as you pass." The reply is tough luck buddy (buy a bigger boat) 19 guests where eight would be about right. We hang out, then move, seeing a couple of whales who elude or photo attempts. We call on the radio and say good-bye to the rangerettes, cross over Icy Straits into Cross Sound on the tide, push through some ocean swells thought a passage into ELFIN COVE. The small village is very neat, fairy tale-like. We buy fuel at the fish station, then move around to the back of the cove and tie up for the night. We take a walk into town, boardwalks wrap the tiny island which includes a small post office, school and general store. Les talks to the locals regarding our passage. We cook dinner late, without coordination or forethought- we need to think ahead.

6-24 SAT
We pull out of Elfin Cove at 4:30 a.m. After helping untie I sleep in till 7:30, Les has put on 40 of the 140 miles across to Gulf of Alaska, the open ocean, the Pacific. I take over and we do another 25 miles by 11. The seas have been ocean swells with a wind blown chop running from behind. Rob takes over as the seas worsen. Les works it again. We really slow down and take a pounding. It gets really hairy when we finally make it to YAKUTAT. We stop and pump water into the side fish holds to lower or center of gravity, then follow two other boats into the harbor. As we pass the point I'm thinking its only a few hundred yards, I could easily swim it, if we were in North Carolina where the water is warm, only here, the water is freezing, you'd never make it! As we pass the bar the ten to twelve foot waves are breaking. You ride them in like you are surfing, surfing on a thirty-five foot boat! It's very unstable, the wave out run you, you either stay straight, or turn sharp left or sharp right. You don't know which. But we make it. We want to go into town for dinner but it is too late. It's taken us sixteen hours. We wait for our food once again but we are all very happy to be back on dry, hard, not moving land. We rename this place, Yuk-a-tat. My bike seems to have made it okay, tucked snugly in the net bags.

6-25 SUN
My birthday. We all sleep in and then have pancakes and sausage. The plan is to wait for calmer seas. None of us want to go back out there again. Of course plans change. Les talks with some people and we find some to follow to Cordovia and he's told ways to enter there. So off we go again. We go to the fuel dock and meet up with Bill Sulivan an the Argo and another boat, the Capricorn. We have to wait for fuel, the guy isn't there... and then we have to wait some more while they scrounge up a 55 gal. drum. Capricorn has gone out ahead and reports fair seas. At 4 p.m. we begin our journey. Capricorn reports they have hit a deadhead and broken a prop. No problem, they have two and will limp back to port. We decide to rotate, two hours on, four off. We are treated to clear skies and easy seas with spectacular views of the coastline. Massive glaciers cover the shoreline, swirling down from equally massive mountains behind them. Mt. St. Elias at 18,000 ft. is the tallest mountain I've ever seen to this point. We push on into the night, thought it never really get totally dark, more an endless sunset turning into and endless sunrise in brilliant hues. The walkman is put to work. The waters are flat and I have to remind myself where we are, in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. I must keep watch, thought it is impossible to see, we don't want to hit a log like the Capricorn. Morning finds us passing Henchenbrook Point and entering Prince William Sound. This is a beautiful place, ten times the Puget Sound I think. The main difference being no input from mankind, no houses or homes, no smoke stacks or bridges, no highways or utility poles, no motor or sail boats polluting the view, less ourselves and of course the haunting knowledge of the Exxon Valdez. We look for oil and find none to speak of until we pass a cove where a clean up crew is hard at work. Just like TV, small and large boats, a hotel barge, a work barge, helicopters flying overhead, booms ring the shore where workmen shoot powerful hoses at the rocks, while others are down on their knees scrubbing individual rocks by hand. It's very errie, and quite obvious that it is useless, there are hundreds if not thousands of miles of coastline, this entire crew might be able to do just a few. We continue on, back out into the Gulf once again and finally around and into Resurrection Bay and SEWARD. We pull in around 9 p.m., celebrate by going out for dinner, prime rib at Ray's. Rob and I go to a bar afterwards and see a cowboy try to pass a bogus $20.

6-27 TUE
SEWARD I wake up and go to the Harbor Masters office. It's Christmas! Both packages, one form home and one, more importantly, from Buckingham BMW, my final drive, are here. I call the Alaska RR and confirm that my tickets are in Anchorage waiting for me. I call BC Ferries and change by crossing to August 5th. The world is spinning in the right direction! We fuel up, drop off the extra drum, and pull my bike out. I install the final drive and it's time for a test ride. Everyone wants to go. I cruise into town and all the cannery boys like my ride. I try to find a secure place to park it but find none. Haul Les and Lori up and back for laundry, shopping. We have tacos for dinner. I have to divide up what I'm leaving with the bike and what's going with me on the boat and to Denali. I should have taken more clothing, left them on the boat. Buy film, a book- see huge stuffed bear. Buy tarp.

6-28 WED
Decide to leave the bike in back of the Coast Guard Station on City property. Leave bags with Harbor Master. We push off. Kenai Fjords are great, we see whales playing, one comes all the way out of the water. It's a beautiful day, water calm. We round the point and enter COOK INLET, dock at Soldovia. I end up cooking chicken fetticini- a lot of work but very good. I take a row out into cove, around rocks and take cool photos, rocks and sky.

6-29 THUR
In morning we move over to Homer Spit and lands end. Lots of activity and a very large boat basin. We run into Bill Sulivan and other friendly boats. We BS and walk around. Go into town for McDs and groceries. Rob and I go check out this cool bar, the Salty Dog. At 6 we head up the inlet on the tide, turn at Anchor Point and fight a following sea- the boat acts really poorly, rolls from side to side. I'm at the wheel and Les keeps telling me to keep it on the mark- I can't and get frustrated. Les takes over and doesn't do much better. Rob's turn and he gets pissed. That's the way the boat is, quit bitching and deal with it. Put water in the holds, slow down- whatever. Finally we make it into KENAI, come up the river and get very excited. It's midnight. We dock and have Champaign, wake up people, meet Dr. Phil and Jeb.

6-30 FRI
KENAI, Ward's Cove Cannery, check the place out. People line up to check our boat out. It is the talk of the dock. We happily receive many compliments. We go to the cannery store to check for mail. Then go to "mug up" at the 10 o'clock break. Go up to the lockers afterward, weird guy. Make a run to NC in North Kenai, McD's again, see bent bike. Return to chores, fix radar (attempt to find intermittent power problem), auto pilot still too sensitive, fix hydraulic pump position, remove nets, take on the skiff and other junk. Then go to 3 p.m. mug up, check out the girls. Fishy but cute. Continue chores, Cook pizza and barbecue chicken. Fuel up takes forever. Run back into town for food. Rob goes for fish gear, plays. We go next door and talk, look for party, have girls down to boat. Get yelled at for staying up.

7-1 SAT
We pull out at 5 a.m. Rob, the all time greatest deck hand that he is sleeping beauty again- it really bothers Les but he doesn't know how to deal with it. I take over duties and enable it. We go out and fish for halibut but no luck. Run into SNUG HARBOR, a tiny finger inlet on the north coast of Cook Inlet's mouth. Meet up with Dr. Phil and Jeb in the North Cape, a small wooden boat like Les' old one. We drop crab pots, fish and play. We catch a couple of flounders for dinner, no crab. We go over to the old cannery for showers, HD ice cream and a look around. Cool old place. Can imagine what it once was. Play trick on Harry, put "Sorry Charlie" note on his fishing line. Very nice afternoon and evening. The gulls just love to harass the bald eagles.

7-2 SUN
Wake up early for clam tide. We go up harbor and around corner into thin water, anchor and take the skiff into shore, run aground early and have to wade in. We decide we are shy of good digging so we go back out and swing over to the spot- and start digging. Tons of razor clams! We pull four large buckets out in less than an hour. Some are as big as you hand. Four float planes have landed and are digging clams too. The tide turns as we are tired and certainly have enough clams. We quit and go back to My Colleen and then back to anchor. We board Helen B and go on The Bear Hunt. Up the inlet again but turn the other way, following the narrowing channel. First we see a sow and two cubs. They are brown. The three cubs on the glacier, black. We see ten in all. We circle back and see huge bear prints in the river bottom below us! A big brown male hangs out in the grass. He could careless about us. We go back to anchor and clean our clams. Clean more clams, and more. Dr. Phil cooks the sauce and I cook spaghetti noodles and we have a big clam chow down. Lori and I take the skiff over to the cannery for a shower. Meet the fish hippies, some set netters (nets that are anchored to shore). We pull up to shore and find it had full of water, the plug came out. We run back, Rob, "I'll do the dishes" is over at the Denali. Others want to dump the skiff in Les. So we will have to hang around and miss the good tide while it is loaded. Les is pissed but takes it. Lori and I clean up the deck. When Rob returns we make him clean the dishes. He didn't want to do it. Play cribbage, Denali ties.

7-3 MON
Dr. Phil whistles over, you're dragging anchor! It's 5 a.m. I let out more line and we catch. Spend next hour keeping one eye open to make sure we are still there. About six we are drifting again. I wake Les so we can move closer to shore. About nine we wake and are almost on shore. So it is time to pull anchor- move to see Denali, pull halibut line- get two. Drag race back to cannery, we pull away. Top end is about the same but we get up to speed quicker. We drop anchor at cannery and everyone ties to us and go in to shower. Decide it is too rough to cross Cook Inlet, we'll wait till evening. Cook bacon and eggs for breakfast. Hang out in boat. I go to shore to do some laundry. Old washers, run back and forth. Wind kicks up. I talk to Rangers from Clake Lake National Park. Les calls, I gather wet laundry and row back to boat. We leave Snug for Seldovia, it's a rough crossing. The window leaks in buckets. Rock and roll. We pull in and cook halibut. Helen B's stove acts up so they us ours, talk and drink.

7-4 TUE
FOURTH OF JULY Everyone comes to SELDOVIA for the celebration. Well, really none do but it's a fun little party. A few boats we know roll in. We go up and watch the parade that consists of Coast Guard honor guard, a fire engine, kids dressed up on their decorated bikes, pipe and drum core, two (wild) horses, a mule drawn wagon and some oil spill protesters. That's it. We said wow and went back to the boat where we had a good view of the log rolling contest. Chris and Jeb entered and did pretty good until he fell in the second round. The water was 52*! Then there was a canoe joust. Some kids in a dory prowls around shooting off boom- booms and bottle rockets. Rob drinks all day. I cook clam fritters. We go up to bar, stay till 3 a.m.

7-5 WED
We move over to HALIBUT COVE, a small artist community on a nearby island. We take a hike up over saddle mountain to see Grewicgk Glacier. Seen one glacier, seen 'em all. It was fun. Then we move over to cove. I cook carrot stew while the others take a walk through town. They return and report that it was pretty nice so after dinner Lori and I go there. The Edward's boys (Helen B) follow along. We see tame ravens. Nice harbor and isthmus. I buy a pitcher of Whatney's at the Sultry for $10, Lori beats me a crib.

7-6 THUR
We all sleep in. At about 11 we move over to Homer. Jon gives the word, still no fishing Friday or Monday. Exxon has a claims office where the skippers go and collect $10,000. Les exclaims that will pay for the insurance. It's grim. We decided to go further back, to Kechakan Bay and spend the night in Bear Cove. We have fun at dinner, table two.

7-7 FRI
BEAR COVE was a nice enough spot but we decide to go back to Kenai. The run up Cook Inlet is like a pond. The auto pilot still acts poorly so we mess around with it trying out different settings. Seems best, though not good, if everything is set to minimum. I suspect it is the boat's instability in following seas- though these were the best conditions. Who knows. We arrive in KENAI, shower and go see Ghost Busters II. I meet up with Kari, one of the cannery girls, again for more laughs in the net loft. She's crazy. Fun.

7-8 SAT
I buy a hat, we go to Seldotna Moose Ranch, look in bushes for moose (see none), then go to grocery store and I prepare to depart. Say good-bye to everyone.

7-9 SUN
I wake up at 4 a.m., Rob has just come in. The alarm was still on Seattle time, so I had another hour before I woke up for real. Les brought me over to the airport, for a quick turbo-hop over to Anchorage. Busses don't run on Sunday so I took a cab over to the railroad station. It was only $12 plus tip. I talked to the baggage guys and took photos of the train. I take a seat in the dome car for the lazy ride north with a good narration by Pat. We are treated to an air show as we pass the AFS northeast of Anchorage. I'm starved and have eggs, biscuit and juice. Mt. McKinley is out. See salmon in streams as we pass. Eat cheeseburger for late lunch just before we arrive at Denali National Park. I walk short distance to back-packer's camp and find a deluxe spot for the first pitch of my brand new North Face Westwind tent. Pretty cool. Walk to Ripley Creek ranger station and get coupon for bus ride to Elison visitor center in morning. Check out the hotel, it's a shake, call Rooti, see store, meet flyers and Robert, the Canadian. Have beers and talk, try to pick up chicks. No luck.

7-10 MON
Walk to Riley, take Kathy's bus into park. They use school busses to shuttle visitors. No cars allowed except by permit to campsites. Pretty good idea. See nearby mountains, wildlife, semi- cloudy so no big mountain. Polychrome Pass is neat area. Section 10 is vast. Hang out a visitor center, cloudy so I don't go further. Take next bus going back. We have a flat tire. The way this guy drove it was no wonder. We get other bus drivers to help out. Meet girl with braided hair, nice. See fox, Charlie, bear, and caribou. Jean wants to see my tent. Yeah right.

7-11 TUE
Rest day, decided to take vacation from vacationing. Sleep in till 9:30. Jean has to return to her friends. They leave. It was fun while it lasted, we'll write (but she never answers back). I take walk under and over railroad bridge. I walk over to Riley and get a ticket for next morning. Wash my hair, check out RR station and take photos of train. Take more photos when southbound comes in. A work train levels out the bridge. Pretty interesting. Back at camp I read and relax. Help Brit. figure out his tent.

7-12 WED
Wake up at 6 a.m., bus for Wonder Lake leaves at 7. The usual stuff. Terry is good but Kathy, the bus driver the day before, was great. I ride all the way out. The mountain is almost out. You can see this side of it or that, but never the whole thing at once. Oh well. It's still a beautiful and wild place. We see caribou up close, some bears fairly close too. On the way back I get off and walk a few miles over Polychrome Pass and down to the bridge. Dale's bus is a wreck. I take the long way back to camp, , through Mirino trail loop. Go get food, eat and talk with Brit. and other neighbors.

7-13 THUR
I over sleep and miss bus. It's overcast so I say forget it. Take hike to Horseshoe Lake- see beaver and cool burr spruce forest. Take in Denali wilderness film- Rangerette Rebecca. Hike RR a ways. Eat cheeseburger. Talk to Alan, Brit. bird watcher tour guide. Shower. Meet two chicks, have dinner and party. Think I get rolled but turns out they paid. Wild party.

7-14 FRI
Time to break camp and catch the afternoon train south. Ride in dome car again. Cloudy so no mountain again, but it clears up as we go south, figures. I BS with kitchen help- they are out of water so there is no fancy meal service like I had planned. Arrive in Anchorage and I walk to B&B. Pete, the host is asleep. Europeans, Canadians, Swiss. It's pretty informal. Watch TV, drink beers and meet S. Florida girl and Ruth.

7-15 SAT
Eat good breakfast, Mike is cook. Go to history and Art museum- great. Window shop and then visit arts center- weird modern show. Birds need more places to perch. At visitors center Peter has his tee-shirt cart. He's sort of a jack of all trades. Meet Susan, Darlin Lily. Go see Omni Dome Alaskan Wilderness- okay, best part fly-over Clake Lakes NP. Meet Jane, talk. Then we have afternoon salmon cook out back at house. Good chow down. Watch TV, meet Denver couple, talk. I go downtown to Great Alaska Bush Company Best show is tall skinny blonde's lotion show, Bridgette, dancing to Freeze Frame. Excellent. Best body is black girl. Military boys and old guys love it. They go through tons of ones. Rude fun.

7-16 SUN
Wake a 6 a.m., tough, eat cereal and run. Double railcar takes us to Seward, great trip. Lady talks my ear off. Hang out by door taking pictures. Meet Bostonians. Talk to Jenny, our hostess, cute. Mountains, tunnels and glaciers. I take a little nap. When we arrive I march into my motorcycle, get the saddle bags, and spend about an hour sorting. Too much stuff. I skip lunch, ride to Moose Pass, grill is closed, eat apple pie. Nice road but too many people, RVs. Go to Portage Glacier- I am not impressed, camp at wig-wam, nice. Eat at cafe, special deal $5.00. Nip breaks axle in parking lot. Cold night.

7-17 MON
I pay on my way out, could have saved $5.00, I don't know? Have juice and donut break, follow broken school bus being pushed. Stop at Potter Section House RR museum. Cruise into Anchorage, look for Peter. Park in town and shop for socks. Go out to REI, buy film mailers and wet boots. Go to very slow post office, mail extra junk home. Head for Glenn Highway, skip groceries- but find Carrs at Palmer. Eat cheeseburger. Ride into the hills. Wave to sunbathers. Great scenery. I don't pay attention to mileposts and pass where I intended to turn towards cool glacier. Find Little Nelchina CG, okay. Cook ribs- meet Buzz, eat salmon and talk till 2 a.m.- thought it was mid-night! Cold, cold, burr.

7-18 TUE
8 a.m. water truck arrives to fill up. He backs by then starts his pump up. He pulls out and drops his load- flood just about kicks my ass! Rough morning. Has to do it all over again. I finally pull out at 10:30. Rough road at times- great otherwise. See three moose, should have stopped and mailed film and letter. Go to St. Elias NP, watch film and get cool book. Go towards Chitna, stop for lunch at Liberty Falls, then up dirt road to campground. It is a dust mess. Road is too rough to go on. I turn around and go back to Liberty Falls and camp. Someone camps right on top of me very late at night.

7-19 WED
Well, what's for breakfast? More Swiss, three, but no bat food. I eat cereal and leave for McCarthy. This is one of those I should haves but I just didn't know or I couldn't figure it out. But also I just wasn't sure I would make it all the way out. So back to Chitina, through the RR cut across the bridge, and on to adventure. Seventy miles up the Kushulana River is crossed a monster of a bridge. I stop and walk the catwalk, take photos. Then on I go. The road is potholed and washboard all the way. So slowly I go, stop by stop. I stop and eat at the trestle ruins. Further on mountains show great views with lakes but mostly it is just brush and trees that line the dusty road. Sixty-one miles and I arrive and the end of the road. I leave my bike. I should have brought (the tank bag) and planned to stay overnight- or had gotten up at six- it was already 4 p.m.! I walked over to the raging Kennicott River and there with four others took two turns across the muddy devil. Walked a little further and cross another branch in the same manner. Then it is a short walk into McCarthy. It's hot and I suck down two three dollar beers. The Swiss are there. It is the turning point. I cannot go on up to Kennicott mines and then make it all the way back. I should have thought it out and stayed the night at the lodge or in McCarthy. I could have brought my sleeping bag. I'm worried about all my stuff back at camp. I have this great book so I know what is up there. So I must turn back. I don't know... So I return the sixty-one miles plus ten paved back to my tent. I'm tired and dusty, I stop for pop at Silver Lake and talk to Pops. Dinner is left-over ribs, soup and peas. I wash my hair and have a fire.

7-20 THUR
Finally it is overcast. I'm beat from the day before and it is slow going. I break camp and go to the highway and head south. Nice road but I am beginning to learn about the bumps and gravel breaks, Alaska-size. A rough road ahead is a stick with a red flag on it (occasionally there is a sign). It may mean a small patch, a mile or several miles- you never know. At about thirty miles from Valdez it starts to rain. It's cold so I turn back. There's nothing I want to see anyway. Maybe some of the oil clean up. So I turn back. Again I kick myself for not going up to Kennicott. The day is wasted. I go up the highway to Glennallen, stop and do laundry. I go to post office to mail the book home, post girl says I missed the best part. Well, yeah, I know that. I put wash in drier after waiting for lady doing a hotel. Then go to grocery. Eat lunch at Frosty and head up the highway. 20 miles of construction- bad to good gravel- some real shit. At Slona I turn up Nebesna Road- Do I go up to primitive camp or stick to pavement and camp with the RVs? Gravel road is nice for a change. I find a spot where the trees are chopped down, green, bar and cabins real close (mile). Oscillate. It's free. I have my new tent to pay off. I stop for a beer at the road house and get hammered. Veco workers (oil clean-up), Ron and bartender and others buy rounds and shots- So it is drizzling rain as I set camp. I cook steak and then have a nice fire- of a a nice dry spruce I fell.

7-21 FRI
I go back to roadhouse for a $3.00 shower- see TV and have coffee. Break camp by noon. I'm on my way to Tok. Still overcast but improving. More construction- 12 miles but not too bad. It will be a very nice highway when they are through. Find Eagle camp for lunch- very nice CG. Stop in Tok for groceries, rum and gas. Look for good water. Check out Deadman Lake CG. I missed one before and I am not impressed so I push on. I stop at Alaska/Yukon border and talk with two bikers from Edmonton, take picture of Alaska sign. Check with border, TV on. Go to Snag Junction Government Camp, full, I bum some water and see a dirt road across lake. Go check it out and find an OK campsite. I cook BQ chicken with spruce coals and watch the endless sunset of a dozen photos. Loons crawl on lake. Light rain.

7-22 SAT
Rain early a.m. quits by 8 a.m. It's hard to get up. I have dishes to do so I make oatmeal. Get ready for riding in the rain. It works, just a few showers. (It would have poured if I didn't suit up.) Road is good and bad, patches improve to where you can go 45 mph on gravel and 60 on paved. Take photo of totally burnt out roadside RV. Stop at CG for lunch, write. Kluane Museum at Burwash is good. Lots of stuffed animals. Call home. I've done real good this day, 120 miles! Camp at CONGDON CREEK on Lake Kluane. Spaghetti, fire and read, go to bed early. Tired.

7-23 SUN
Sleep till 9:30! I must have been tired. Leisurely I break camp and continue on my slow pace. Stop here and there for photos and look sees. Surprise at Silver City, ghost town. I think Fred and Irene came through this way. Lots of tour busses. Along Kluane Lake and on up to Haines Jct. Gas up, shop for food, Frostie. See slide show of Kluane N.P.- very good. I check out Kathleen Lake, okay but go on, miss Dezadeash CG- signs were down, windy, so I go on. Meet Beemers on way and follow them for a few miles then check out Million Dollar Falls CG- this is it. Spot No.1 near falls. Share site with bicyclist- Dave from Ashland, Oregon. Nice to talk.

7-24 MON
I wake very early and can't fall back asleep. When I hear Dave up I get out of the tent and eat. The road is being worked on but passable after a mile or two of really rough stuff. Huge gravel. Then onto the new highway which is very nice. Into the clouds over Chilchat Pass (very cold). Little rain. I report to customs that it is "very cold". Down into Haines through the eagle sanctuary. I ask a local kid where the best cheeseburger is- Bamboo Room- its pretty good too. Then out to Chilkat State Park, find okay site 24. Then I go down by water and find site 33 within yards of beach and have to move. Take nap. Relax and read. Eat dinner after walk around peninsula. Neat spruce forest. Thunder- oh no! Sky is clear? It's ice fall on glacier across bay. Evening fire, drizzle. pokeypine climbs tree, eagles fly around screeching.

7-25 TUE
Rain, rain, rain. I hate the rain. It slows down a little around 8:30 when I get up. It's foggy over the water. Well, I wanted to come to southeast Alaska. I break camp and put a wet tent on my wet bike. But this is the first day I've really had to put my rain gear on. I go over to the ferry terminal at the prescribed time, 10:30, two hours before departure. The rumor is confirmed, there is a big sign about the threatened strike. I get my will call tickets and then talk to Hazel at her coffee stand. They do it every year. Hope so. Nothing I can do so we'll see. I get a hot tip from a dockman, there's a hot shower on the boat. Good idea. So I get in line and watch the ferry arrive. Finally I'm directed in. They don't know what they are doing. It's a big self inflicted hassle. Or maybe they do know what they are pre-strike doing. I go up and find the free hot shower. Have the place to myself and take as long as I like. It was great, and much needed. Afterwards I roam the Taku, have a cheeseburger, $3.75 with fries! Cheapest in Alaska and good. Only one hour into SKAGWAY. The rain is off and on. Now I have to decide what to do. Go up to Dyea campground, or stay in a hotel or B&B? It's stopped raining and I find an in-town CG for $6.00 and do it. If it is too bad I can do the hotel tomorrow. I set up camp and then tour the town. The cruise ship tourist herd through town. See eagle movie, city hall museum and walk the town. Lots of girls- I've been out too long. Big chow down dinner, steak, fried potatoes done to perfection. Talk to old folks and drunks.

7-26 WED
At 8 a.m. the train rolls by. I think he lays on the whistle by the campground for his own enjoyment. Time to get up. I cook oatmeal, then decide to go into town. We'll look at the train first. I follow it up the pass. There are some good views and there are some great ones. One great one, where a waterfalls ribbons down the entire mountain side. Well, I'm here so I continue up over the pass. It is rough and rugged. It's easy to see why so many lives, both man and animal, were lost crossing this place during the gold rush. It is bitter and wind swept, treeless rocks at the top. It's appropriately cold and wet as I return. In town I meet Pa and daughter on motorcycle, Connecticut bicyclists, and too many friends. Weather improves and I photograph downtown. I decide to go back up to the pass, bring a coat and my helmet this time. Customs lady tells me to go to Spirit Lake to eat but I turn back at Carcross. I'm just goofing off. Have poor (lots of) ice-cream. Run into Robert- a hitchhiker I met in Denali, at the RR crossing. He's just come off Chilcoot Pass. Run back to Skagway and have big cookout, pork chops, Rice a Rooti, salad and green beans.

7-27 THUR
I get up early and go down to White Pass & Yukon RR depot and question the schedule. They do two round trips to Frasier, so I take the 7:45 up and back. I have my tank bag and that's it. I bum a donut from Terri, the hostess. She's pretty sweet. It is very relaxed, I'm the only full trip passenger- three others get off at Denver, mile post 5, for a day hike. The rest of the crew is back in the "prison car" or "war wagon", the cupola car. Terri's duty is to entertain me. Rather than make her narrate the whole trip I tell her to maybe just point out her favorite spots. It is a wild ride. The route clings to the mountain side like a poorly constructed model train layout. On the side of cliffs, across thrown together bridges, past Dead Horse Gulch, wisely bypassing the old steel girder bridge. Finally at the top we turn around at customs and fill up with tourist off of busses. I climb up to see the locomotives and probably could have talked my way into a cab ride however a pushy Brit ruins it. Back aboard, though there are only a couple of people in my car, I lament that the ride up was much better. I liked having the whole train, and especially Terri as my personal guide, alone to myself. Back in town I cook up lunch and break camp, do laundry, and then have beers at the Golden North Hotel, my home for the night. Sully, the conductor, comes in and I talk to him about the railroad. I check in to room 10. The hotel is furnished with 1900s decor. I should have stayed here when it was raining. Oh well. I shave and shower, re-humanize myself. Then wonder around town before dinner, F + C downstairs. Retire to my room and read.

7-28 FRI
I sleep in till 9:30, shower and pack. I take a tour of the hotel- nice lobby area upstairs. I look into some of the rooms. They are all different. NP tour of Skagway, take photo walks and tourist trails. Ride over to Dyea and eat lunch. Nothing special, just low woods. Return to Skagway then a quick run into the mountains, then back for a buying spree. Trinkets for the kids. Beer at the Red Onion. It's a slow tourist day- no ships. Out to ferry at 5:30. I'm told to be in-line by 6:30 so I take one last tour of town. In line I talk to the other bikers and check-out a $300,000 RV. Ferry is two hours late. We have lots of beers while we wait. Finally on board, my plan for a hot dinner is dead, they stopped serving at 9 p.m. This strike stuff is bullshit! I'll crack heads if they go on strike. Wonder around. I have to move my bike in Haines which is totally screwed up. I read a while and then crash in the forward lounge, lots of snoring.

7-29 SAT
JUNEAU BAY in fifteen minutes. It is 4 a.m. I go down. My poor bike is really squished in. Hey, I paid for ten feet! I get off pretty early, head towards Mindenhall Glacier. I stop by CG sign but fresh oil and gravel turn me away. So I run up to see the glacier. Seen one, seen them all. But it is pretty cool. A big one. I walk out to the photo point. It's okay but there must be a better trail. I find a 1.5 mile East Glacier Loop. It climbs and climbs into a great mossy rain forest. The trail goes over rock and gravel with cable handrails and sometimes long wooden steps. Unfortunately, the view of the glacier and especially the powerful Nugget Falls is a let down and he return trail quite dull. Upon my return it is 7 a.m. Now what to do? I attempt to check out the camp but they are ready to pour some more oil so I check out AUKE BAY CG, site 8 is unoccupied so I pull in. Nice tall firs. I set up and follow the fishermen down to the bay and watch them fish for a while. Then it's time for a nap.

12 noon. Good snooze, I eat some soup and sort some of my gifts for the kids, my five nieces and one nephew. I have a leather pouch and odd trinkets for each. It's time for my tour of Juneau. The outskirts around Mindenhall with the University of Alaska remind me of Boulder, Colorado. The tourist shops in town are crammed into one tiny area. Beyond that the Capitol, banks and buildings, and the homes are pretty dull. Here and there are some interesting constructions. I wonder up a road and find Last Chance Basin, hike around the mining area, see an old trolley and do a little prospecting. Good color? I don't know what I'm looking at. I take some samples for the leather pouches. I take a run out to the south end and see them reeling in the salmon. I pick up some groceries and call home. Big chow down, T-bone steak, potatoes, salad and three beers.

7-30 SUN
Alarm is set for 5 a.m. I wake at 4:30 and pack up. Go check in at ferry, it's two hours before a one hour late ferry- I'm beginning to see a pattern. So I go up the road for a little ride, thinking I could have slept in. It begins to rain. At least my gear is packed away dry. Finally, I board the Le Conte, grab all sorts of stuff and head for the solarium deck. I hang out, sleep and play tapes. It's a smaller ship that the Taku. It rains all the way, a persistent sheet, a little more than a drizzle. At 6 we arrive in SITKA. I sort my gear and prepare to get wet. This isn't going to be any fun. First I go check out the campground. There are plenty of spaces. The occupied sites seem to be well prepared for rain, with blue tarps and extra plastic. I decide I may as well go the ten miles into town and check it out. Not much to it. The onion dome church in the center. I spot the movie house. And things Mitchner mentions in his book, Alaska. McDonalds? That wasn't in the book. Motel 8. Hun? I wonder town and fight my thoughts. How bad could it be? Okay, let's check. $60 less 10% if I join the club. Ah shit, okay. It's raining. I hate the rain. I go see the movie, Batman, and watch another on TV back at my room.

7-31 MON
It's much better out in the morning so I don't have to make another decision. I'll move to the campground. I wonder town and decide it is okay. Looks better under these conditions. I'm disappointed in Castle Hill, there's no structures. I visit Totem Square, Pioneer House, City Center, and Community Center. Take some photos of the church. Then out to the campground. Pick site 5, eat lunch and then go find good site by the water but it is too wet to move. Back into town and out to Sitka NP and the Totem walk. Great place, walk trail through woods discovering dozens of totem poles. Wonder stores and check out neat stuff- canoes, graves, blockhouse. Sitka is very cool.

8-1 TUE
SITKA- go to Bishop's House, neat old wooden construction. Upstairs is finished. Cute Rangerettes. Go to Jackson museum and then out to totems again and walk it twice. Then it is time to go. Stop for food and then out to ferry terminal and wait for COLUMBIA, the big one that goes all the way to Seattle. Hang out in solarium among the tents and crowds of people. Finally I pull together a site. Eye two girls but don't talk to them, I don't know why. I walk to the back rail to check out the sunset and one of them comes over. She's from Boston, without the accent, went to BC for computer science/English, was visiting relatives in Anchorage.

8-2 MON.
Aboard the Columbia. We dock at Petersburg at 1 a.m. I get up for a look see. Guess who I run into? We stay up talking as the boat moves on to Wrangle. At 6 a.m. we are there, I shower and change clothes. There enough of a layover in Wrangle to tour town. There isn't much to it. Chief Shakes little island with his grave, a tribal house and several totems. The tide is out and we are lead down to view some petroglyph. We meet the other girl and talk to her on the way back. She is a fisher person form Oregon. I relate my My Coleen fishing story. Back on board, take a nap, read and talk to people. Too soon we pull into KETCHIKAN and I must depart. I'm tempted to stay on board with my new friends but the adventure must continue. I cruise town and go to the totem museum, totem park and a couple of tourist traps. Everything is 50 percent off. 50 percent off the 200 percent marked up price I suspect! I learn the Taku will be 1 a.m. late! So I go see Lethal Weapon 2, good show. Back to ferry, now due at 1:30 so I go get beers and talk to Honda guys, and wait and wait and wait. It's past 3 a.m. when we finally board. I can barely function. AK Marine Highway SUCKS!

8-3 THUR
Wake a little before 9, we're nearing Prince Rupert. I feel like shit. Get into PR after being last to leave the boat, wait through customs. I shop and run out of town to eat at rest stop. Decide I should get ice, gas and take a dump so I retrace my steps. Then run out along the Skeena River. Nice but cold and overcast. Stop here an there. I'm tired so I find a campground 55 miles out called EXCHAMSIKS RIVER. Read and think it over before I decide to stay. I get out my tent and look for a good pitching site. The drive is elevated a dozen feet above the natural floor. It's all hardpan gravel without any spot for a tent. There are big trees all around. A spot below looks good so I begin to set my tent up. Then the attendant comes by and says that I can't put my tent up there, it must be on the gravel pad. This is ridiculous. Some big deal about the liability if a tree limb decides to fall and hit me on the head. Shit, does it matter if I'm laying on the gravel of the forest floor when that happens? It's impossible to get the tent pegs into the packed gravel with hand-sized rocks. I am so pissed I can't take it. I'm too tired to go anywhere else. He retreats as I boil, fucking BC Parks, $8 and rules! We're out in the fucking middle of nowhere and some pencil neck 500 miles away who has never camped out in his life is telling me... Finally I cool down enough to use the nail trick and pound pilot holes into the ground and secure my tent on their precious gravel pad soaked with drip oil from the car and RVs. It's a fucking drive way you idiots! Some outdoors experience. Truly quality stuff. I was realizing my return to civilization would take some getting used to. I fumed, cooked spaghetti and read by campfire light. I'm sure that was probably illegal.

8-4 FRI
It rains and rains. Finally, during a lull I get up and pack. I figure I'm already wet so I may as well go see what's further up river. Wearing all of my rain gear works, the sun slowly breaks out near Terrace. I go buy film and eat. Then I continue the run but fining nothing spectacular I begin my return. I stop at a park and dry my tent and write. Then move on stopping here and there. I think about a BC Provincial Park CG 12 miles out but opt for the free shower at the Park Ave. campground in Prince Rupert. I meet Frasier Crikinlaw, a beemer. Cook spaghetti and take a shower, then swap no-see-ums. Cutter's doesn't work!

8-5 SAT
You don't need an alarm clock. Car doors slam, RVs roll by. I break camp and get into line. They put the bikes on first. And they provide tie downs and chalks. We pull out of PR and head south. I wonder around and talk to the bikers., tell them my story and listen to theirs. Eat the buffet lunch, it's deluxe and all you can eat. I chow down. Good price, okay meal. Hang out, write and read. When we arrive at Port Hardy I'm off, go directly to WILDWOOD CG, site #1, pitch the tent in the dark. Rookies come in on jap bike and entertain me as they try to set up their tent. Nice chick in lobby office.

8-6 SUN
Sleep in till 11! I needed it. Everyone has gone except the kid picking up the garbage, he's singing high pitched and out of key, it's a laugh. I check out Port Hardy and go shopping, get gas, and head up the road. Cool mountains but lots of clear cutting. Almost have to help biker- his old bike is barely running. Gas in Campbell River, then run up to STRATHCONA P PARK, great bike road. First camp is full, go to RALPH and get next to last site! Huge trees.

8-7 MON
Run up to end of road, find big zinc, gold and silver mine, wonder around and find some color. Run back down hill and then Vancouver Island. It is British Columbia Day- a big holiday so the place is a zoo. RVs with all sorts of cars trying to pass them. I give up on my plan to go out to the beach at Pacific Rim NP. I go to Nanimo and catch the 6 p.m. ferry. The Angles are having a big party. From Horseshoe Bay I follow 99 south. Canada doesn't have super highways- it runs right down through the city, down Grandville, light after light. The sunsets and there is a quarter moon. Nice night. I go through US customs pretty quickly. They got a hot tip. I go to Bellingham and stop at McYiks. It's only an hour to home. You know, you go three thousand miles and you have thirty to go. Nothing bad has happened the whole trip. I've been very careful. I'm running along at 65 mph, the traffic is light. Out of the dark I see a light figure, ghostly. No, it's a dog, a golden retriever, I'm on the brakes, turning left. NO! It's the wrong way, the way he is walking. I turn to the right, he stops. I'm out of time. I hit him square in the side. You have time to think how stupid this is. As the bike is torn out from under my hands, flipping over on its side, up-side-down. I'm sailing through the air, flying at 60 mph. Still time to think this is something I never wanted to experience again as I hit the fast moving pavement. I hit on my right arm and hip. It burns. I skid and begin to roll over, this isn't good and I put my left foot out to stop it. Before I'm completely stopped I'm getting back up, trying to get off the highway before someone runs over me. I see this isn't going to happen and I pick my duffel bag as I look at my bike still sliding finally to a stop. I can't believe this has happened again! Damn dog. A couple of people have stopped and help me lift the bike. I go an drag the dog off the road, poor pup. I give him a last pat. I limp my way up to the next exit and stop at the closed Shell station and tape myself back together. I remove the lamps and disconnect the broken turn signal. The front end is screwed up and wobbles between 35-45 mph. I run home and pull in around midnight. The place is locked but I find a basement door that is not fully latched and break-in easily. It wakes the cat and I give her a good pet.

Only 2566 miles put on the bike, but one of them very hard.

  Next Log - 1990  


  1980   Datsun Roadster Trip - Sorry, no log

  1981   Solo On My New Bike - Sorry, no log

  1982   We Need More Time! - Sorry, not loaded yet

  1983   Stray Cat Tour - Quit Your Job and Go All Summer

  1984   Lost Tour - Colorado, Havasu, Lake Powell

  1985   Girl-i-tus Tour -

  1986   Alb Q Q Loop -

  1987   Freeze Fry Trip -

  1988   The Grand Tour -

  1989   ALASKA - The Ultimate Tour -

  1990   A Month, A Week and A Few Days -

  1991   The Forgotten Trip - No Motorcycles!

  1992   NO TOUR - Sorry, not loaded

  1993   NO TOUR - Sorry, not loaded

  1994   Who's In Charge? Tour -

  1995   Not Sure Where Tour - No real plan

  1996   Back To Alaska - Sorry, not loaded

  1996   Jasper Car Camping - Sorry, not loaded

  1996   Broken Cut Foot Tour -

  1997   What Trip? - Sorry, not loaded

  1998   TOUR - Sorry, not loaded

  1999   TOUR - Sorry, not loaded

  2000   Nailed In Montuna - Sorry, not loaded

  2001   A Tiny Solo Trip - Sorry, not loaded

    and A FEW DAYS

    Motorcycle Stories


    Truth blended with Fiction

    T O U R   L O G S    

    P H O T O   G A L L E R Y    

    I N   T H E   G A R A G E    



  C. C. CROW     P. O. BOX 1427      MUKILTEO, WA   98275   USA